by Dean Woods with Rupert Guiness
The Cyclist's Wardrobe
Helmets
Eye-protectors
Jackets
Undershirts
Jerseys
Shorts
Shoes
Gloves and Shoe-covers
Having the correct clothing is vital. You need the right clothing to feel comfortable, as well as to protect you from the elements. And dressing sensibly will help to prevent heat loss and the risk of colds.
A cyclist almost needs two wardrobes - one for the winter and one for the summer. If you are cycling regularly in the heat of summer, make sure that your cycling wardrobe is well stocked with an assortment of clothes. For basic hygiene, cycling clothes should be washed every day, especially at this time of year, when residual sweat can lead to infection if you have an open cut or graze. Wearing dry clothing after racing is important too, to avoid catching cold.
Try to be conscious of the colour of your clothing too. Of all your garments the two which can protect you the most (apart from the helmet) are the jersey and cap.
A white or light-coloured cycling jersey will absorb the heat much less than a dark-coloured one. The same goes for light-coloured cycling caps, which can have an added cooling effect when worn after being drenched in water and wrung out. It may be worth buying a light-coloured pair of shorts. However, if you're short of money, invest in a light-coloured jersey first.
Don't neglect the variety of climates and temperatures you may encounter. For example, Australia may be a 'sunburnt' country, but there are still wet and cold periods and - in certain places, such as north-east Victoria - snow and blizzards. So, wherever you plan to cycle, make sure you check the weather conditions and take along what clothing you need.
Don't be tricked into buying the cheapest clothing available. Everyone has limits on their spending, of course, but it's not worth having clothing made from poor-quality material. Cheaper garments sometimes have faults which can lead to tearing, thus exposing your body to the elements and possible injury. By spending a few extra dollars you can purchase clothing which really does protect you.
Many people buy imported products from Europe where cycling is a major sport and where clothes are made for the extreme and varying conditions there. While you'll pay more for these imported products, they can be thought of as an investment in terms of quality. Naturally, if locally made items are of equal quality and cost the same price - or less - then buy them.
For winter or pre-season training, kit up with thermal gear - a sleeveless suit or jacket, leg and arm-warmers, a rain jacket and a waterproof, wool-lined hat which can be worn under the helmet. Thermal clothing has many advantages. It keeps you warm while also allowing the skin to 'breathe' - that is, when you perspire, the sweat is absorbed by the material and kept from the skin so you don't get that sticky, wet feeling you have when you wear a cotton T-shirt, for example. Thermal gear is also light and hence there is limited (if any) restriction to movement which pure wool garments - however effective - can't offer.
However many layers of gear you put on is really up to you. To begin with, it's best to start with a thin vest made of wool and acrylic. (It's very hard to find pure wool these days.) Then wear acrylic cycling shorts ('knicks'), ideally with a bib-and-brace design where the material pulls up over your lower back: these will protect your joints from the cold when you are bending forward. With these basic items of thermal clothing you will have a good foundation of protection.
Then add what clothes you feel are necessary. In training, if the weather seems unpredictable, wear layers and garments which can easily be taken off. Layers also prevent chafing. You may want to wear a short-sleeved jersey and use arm-warmers which can be taken off if the weather improves, or you could wear long-sleeved tops (up to two or three in severe winters!) and leg-warmers if you choose not to wear long cycling tights. If it's certain to be cold, stick with long jerseys and thermal jackets.
When to wear thermal protective gear depends on your body's metabolism. A general rule of thumb is to wear thermal leg and arm-warmers until the temperature reaches about 20°C (68°F). Some cyclists, though, like to wear them for the first hour while warming up, even if it's over 20°C, to get the blood circulation going. (In Australia it rarely, if ever, becomes cold enough to wear leg-warmers during a race.)
Helmets [back to top]
The most important piece of safety equipment you need. There are many brands on the market with varying prices, which can be confusing. Here are two key rules to follow: first, make sure the helmet you buy is officially recognised by industry manufacturing standards; second, don't try and cut costs by buying the cheapest helmet - the hospital fees as a result of a shoddy helmet not providing the safety you need will cost you a lot more!
It is, of course, recommended that you always wear a helmet. Helmet laws vary around the world. Their use is recommended in all countries, although some places are stricter than others. And Australia is arguably the strictest of them all. Australian law states that all cyclists must wear a hard-shell helmet whether they are racing, training, touring, or even if they are only going to the local corner shop. Failure to do so incurs on-the-spot fines.
There are various types of hard-shell helmets for specific cycling forms. However, all models - which are generally made of polystyrene foam - should achieve an adequate combination of safety, lightness, aerodynamism and ventilation.
Many events like pursuiting and the 'kilo' time trial require riders to wear aerodynamic helmets. However, the helmet you have for road cycling will suffice in other events like the sprint, points and motor-paced events.
Apart from Europe, most helmet laws do not accept leather 'hairnets'. In Europe they are only worn by professional cyclists who are still permitted to use them under the laws of the Union Cycliste Internationale.
The most cumbersome-looking helmets are those used in road cycling, although there has been much improvement in the appearance factor in recent years. The biggest complaint has been the problem of heat and ventilation when riding hills or mountains - a factor which really only confronts riders in events like the Tour de France when they are in the Alps or the Pyrenees.
In time trials and track endurance events like the pursuit or triathlons, the focus is on aerodynamism - hence the 'teardrop' style so frequently seen.
Mountain-biking helmets are more akin to road helmets, although many mountain-bike helmets also have a visor above the brow to block out the sun and to protect you from rain. Some of the most reliable brands of helmet are Giro, Specialised and Brancale.
Eye-protectors [back to top]
Sunglasses with dark lenses will block out the sun and damaging ultra-violet rays. Clear-lensed glasses will enhance vision in wet, overcast and dark conditions. Both types of lenses will also provide protection from splinters of loose gravel, dust and insects. Some recommended brands are Oakley, Bolle and Cebe.
Jackets [back to top]
In a cold wind, instead of wearing a plastic rain jacket over your clothes, it is best to wear a wind jacket. Rain jackets are only good in heavy rain. No matter how cold it is, because they are made of plastic, you will become too hot. Wind jackets allow for some ventilation and the chance for your body to 'breathe'.
A recommended brand which gives you the benefit of both rain and wind protection is Goretex. They also make a vest which fits over the head. These are great, because you don't have to wear too many layers of clothing underneath them which can add extra and unwanted weight to carry when wet. They also maintain dryness and warmth while allowing for maximum ventilation.
Undershirts [back to top]
If it's really cold, a cyclist might wear one jersey and two – or even three – undershirts. Some people use T-shirts as undershirts, but this is not really ideal. T-shirts tend to stay wet from perspiration and can give you a chill. It is best to use clothing which absorbs the sweat, thus keeping your body dry.
There are synthetic-wool undershirts available which are quite good for this. If it is very hot and dry, then it is OK not to wear an undershirt; just wear your cycling jersey. If rain is expected, though, then you should wear an undershirt because dampness, added to the wind-chill factor, can make you cold.
Jerseys [back to top]
The cycling jersey itself is often made from synthetic material too. In a race, you may be confined to wearing your club or team colours but, when training, wear brightly coloured jerseys. This is because when it gets dark bright colours will be more visible (white isn't necessarily ideal because it can get dirty more easily and even blends into the surrounding terrain).
How many cycling jerseys you should have is an open question. Many cyclists collect jerseys, while others ride with one or two favourites until they almost drop off.
Ideally, it is best to have at least one short and one long-sleeved jersey. This not only gives you something to wear if one is being washed, it also gives you another layer to put on in chillier conditions.
Shorts [back to top]
Lycra shorts are recommended for their flexibility and comfort. You can get shorts in thermal material too, but you don't really need them because leg-warmers almost come up to the top part of the thigh and while riding a cyclist is bent over the handlebars, protecting the thighs and crutch area from any wind chill. And the commonly used bib-and-brace design means that the bib portion acts as another layer of protection for the lower torso.
The only problem with shorts is that in the wet, you can get your backside wet from the water flicking up from the rear wheel. This is a problem which can be alleviated by putting a mudguard on the back wheel.
For training and racing, you should have about three or four pairs of shorts. In training, shorts will wear out quickly - so keep two sets separate for racing only. This will maximise use of your clothes and also help to keep them clean, especially the chamois crutch section.
If you're not a heavy sweater, you can get two days' wear out of your cycling clothes before washing them, but never take risks with the chamois crutch. If possible, wash this area by hand or, if not, use a washing-machine at a low temperature setting. Try to let the shorts dry slowly in the fresh air or in front of a heater (when put in a tumble-dryer the crutch can become hardened or torn by the heat).
Thanks to a chamois crutch it is not necessary to wear anything underneath cycling shorts. However, the risk is that when dirt or grit get into the shorts, it can grind into the skin from the chamois. Saddle sores are a common result. Today the crutch area in a pair of shorts is often made from a synthetic material - or even terry-towelling. The main benefit of these materials is that they can be machine-washed and dried more easily. However, the very best shorts to have are still the ones with the traditional leather chamois crutch.
Many riders treat the leather crutch area of their shorts with creams. You don't need to do this if you're only cycling for one or two hours a day. But if you have a sensitive skin, if the surface you're cycling on is rough or if you're going at high speeds (which can create friction), you may benefit from using a cream.
Shoes [back to top]
One of the most expensive items in a cyclist's wardrobe. They can cost up to A$300 for a good pair. It will depend on what level you're training or racing at. Remember, though, that badly fitted shoes can create injury to joints and muscles.
Everyone's feet are different - some people have flat feet, others have a very high arch. The only way to find out which shoes are best for your feet is to try out several pairs.
The two biggest differences between the cycling shoe and the running shoe is that cycling shoes have hard, stiff soles and cleats, or shoe-plates. A hard sole increases the effectiveness of the pedalling motion. Using running shoes is OK for recreational cycling on a mountain bike or even a road bike (if it's not on a regular basis), but for regular riders, proper cycling shoes are vital.
You'll also need to think about cleats (the piece of shoe which connects it to the pedal). They come in various designs, depending on the brand of shoe and the pedal. There are two types: the traditional cleat is used with pedals which have a leather toe-strap; the more modern 'strapless' version locks into the pedal by a ski-binding system. Positioning the cleat correctly in both types is extremely important. This will maximise pedal motion and avoid the risk of muscle injuries which can occur by wrongly positioned shoe-plates. Ask an experienced cyclist or the attendant at the cycling shop to help secure the correct position.
Another development in shoe design is the use of a velcro fastening strap instead of shoe laces. Some people like to have both laces and straps because, during a race, straps can loosen under pressure. A recommended brand for this type of shoe is Brancali.
Do wear socks. If you don't, you're opening the door to infection and chafing. Tradition calls for white socks, although this 'rule' seems to be bending these days. What is important is that they are made of cotton or a cotton-synthetic material. Don't wear 100%-synthetic socks because your feet will sweat more, especially in the summer.
Gloves and Shoe-covers [back to top]
Don't believe that in cold weather racing mitts (gloves with the ends of the fingers cut off) will protect your hands from the elements - they won't. The material is too thin to keep you warm and your fingers will be totally exposed. Racing mitts are a warm or dry-weather item of clothing only.
In really cold weather (less than 5°C/41°F), shoe-covers and thick gloves made from a wet-suit material are a must. These are arguably two of the most important items to get because it is from the hands and feet that the body loses most of its heat. When hands and feet become numb, a cyclist more or less loses the four points of balance.
With numb hands it becomes hard to hold the handlebars (and to eat), to change gears and to brake. With numb feet, your pedalling efficiency is seriously impaired. And gloves also help to protect you against hand burns or grazing.
Cycling shops should stock heavy-duty cold-weather gloves and shoe-covers. But if they are hard to come by, you could try a windsurfing shop where the gloves are the same and shoe-covers only need a hole cut in their sole for the cleat.
6-8 Handley Street (PO Box 654) Wangaratta Victoria 3677 Australia.