by Dean Woods with Rupert Guiness
Bicycle Maintenance
The bicycle needs as much care and maintenance as the athlete does. This is simply because no matter how strong and fit you are, you won't get anywhere without a sound working bike. Maintenance of your bicycle should not be last-minute and sporadic. You should put time aside to clean and check your bicycle regularly for any required repairs. And you should double-check it again before a race.
Cleaning [back to top]
No matter what environment you live in, washing your bicycle is vital. This is especially important if you've been riding in wet weather or near the sea, where salt on the roads can increase corrosion.
To wash a bike properly, you'll need the following:
- bucket of luke-warm water with a little detergent
- bottle of diesel oil
- sponge
- soft brush
- old toothbrush
- tin or bottle of chrome polish
- selection of dry rags
The first step is to take your bike to an open area where there is no risk of the washed-off dirt or the cleaning materials you are using marking anything. It is often handy to put the bike in a bike-stand. If you don't have this, it is not important - just place it against a wall.
To clean the rims, use a sponge or brush with detergent water. The tyres can be cleaned with a soft brush which will also help pull out any small stones or glass and metal splinters from the tread which you may not see. If the chain is dirty it should be cleaned with a paintbrush dipped in diesel oil. The same can be done for the brakes, gear levers, the derailleur and free-wheel, or rear, cog. Make sure you do this before you start cleaning the frame. For the frame, a sponge with soapy water is ideal. However, try as much as possible to avoid getting water into the components cleaned with diesel. After washing thoroughly with a hose fitted with a high-pressure nozzle, dry off the entire bicycle with dry rags or towels. Then apply fresh oil to the chain, gears and brakes. Use the oil sparingly, as a little goes a long way. Chrome polish should be used now and then on the handlebar stem, seat post, brakes, hubs, spokes, rims, cranks, chain-rings and pedals.
Quick Repairs [back to top]
Nothing beats having a qualified mechanic attend to any repairs. However, there are several maintenance repairs which you can do yourself. This will save money and the inevitable delay that leaving a bike at a cycling shop will lead to. An important asset for any cyclist is a good set of cycling tools. There is a huge variety to choose from. What you actually get really does depend on your budget and ability to use the tools. A cycling shop should be able to advise you on what to get for basic tool kit. This could include:
- foot and hand pumps
- allen keys
- spanners
- screwdriver (with normal and Phillips head pieces)
- spoke key
- plastic tyre levers
- rim cement
- chain and crank-removal tools
- adhesive electrical tape
- tape-measure
- penknife
- scissors
- chain lubricant
- spare tubular tyres, or spare tyres and inner tubes
- spare handlebar tape
- spare spokes
- pen marker, pen and note pad to record positional changes or status
Chains, Brake Blocks and Brake Cables [back to top]
Check these for possible replacement. They all wear out some time or another. It is better to change them before they do - it could happen, leaving you stranded miles away from home! The naked eye can verify if brake blocks and cables need replacing. However, it's harder to see if you need a new chain. A handy method is to try and lift the chain off the big chain-ring with two fingers. If three or four chain-links can be raised, then there is too much slack and you should replace the chain. If the cluster is old or worn, it is good practice to replace it as well because new and old equipment don't usually run well together.
Hubs [back to top]
Each year you should dismantle the hubs - or get someone to do it if you can't - and have them cleaned and given a new dose of grease.
Handlebar Stems and Seat Posts [back to top]
Do the same for the handlebar stem and seat post. These two items are easy to take out and only need an allen key to do it. However, before you remove them, make sure you know the position they were in beforehand. A good tip is to lightly mark the stem or post at the point where it goes into the tubing or frame. Make sure you keep these two parts well greased, or you will have the awful task of trying to separate components welded with rust.
Cranks and Head Sets [back to top]
Cranks should be re-tightened and head sets checked for any movement or corrosion. Check the head set for movement by applying the front brake and rocking the bike gently back and forth. If it's loose, you'll hear a clunking noise.
Wheels and Spokes [back to top]
It is important that your wheels are regularly serviced. Major wheel maintenance is a highly specialised job which takes years of experience - you may prefer to have a professional look after customised wheels, but there are checks and repairs you can do at home. First check to see that the wheels are 'true' - that is, that they don't wobble when spun. This should be done before and after any race or when you have replaced an old or broken spoke. Loose spokes can cause wheels to wobble, so check the tension of the spokes, especially in the rear wheel. You'll need a special spoke key for this. It connects with the nipple of the spoke at the rim.
Many riders get confused about which spokes need tightening and in what direction they should be turned. Basically, when the rim wobbles to the right you must loosen the right spokes and tighten the left ones at the troubled area of the rim until the run is true. To tighten a spoke, the key should be turned anti-clockwise and vice versa. When a rim is raised up or bent, it can be corrected by tightening the left and right spokes in the affected area. When the rim is flattened slightly, loosen the spokes on both sides of the flattened area. A good way of preventing spokes from coming loose is to apply a small drop of rim cement or silicon solution on top of each spoke nipple.
Tyres [back to top]
Check them before and after every ride if possible. Look closely at the tread and remove any splinters or specks of material that might have lodged there. If you find something, deflate the tyre and pick it out delicately with a sharp object like a penknife. Be careful not to 'dig-in' when extracting an object as this may not only push the foreign object further into the tyre, but it might cause the very puncture you are trying to avoid! Also, if you can't avoid cycling over a patch of broken glass or debris, a way of minimising the chance of anything piercing the tyre is to lightly place a palm (with gloves on, of course!) on the tyre while cycling. Be very careful when doing this. Don't let your fingers bend around the rim and get caught in the spokes. Similarly, don't put too much pressure on the tyre as it may suddenly brake you.
Changing Tyres and Tubes [back to top]
One of the most important maintenance jobs is changing old tyres or putting new tyres on old rims. If you have brand-new rims, it's important to clean them first with petrol. Then they'll need three or four base coverings of rim cement before the tyre can be fitted. These layers should be thin, but evenly spread, with the first layer taking 24 hours to dry and the others 10 hours each. The physical task of putting a brand-new tyre on a rim is not easy. It depends on which type of tyre you are riding: high-pressures are easier to change than singles.
Singles [back to top]
Before fitting singles, stretch the tyre first. This can be done by placing one foot with your weight behind it on one side, pulling the other side up firmly towards your chin. Make sure that you don't pull too hard, otherwise you'll tear the base tape, causing a weak spot in the new tyre. Do this several times at different points of the tyre.
With this done, it's time to put another layer of cement on the rim. This layer only needs five or ten minutes of drying time before you can start pulling the tyre over and on to the rim. When putting the tyre on, make sure it's slightly inflated and begin by putting the valve area of the tyre on to the rim first. Place the rim on a clean surface (to avoid grit getting into the cement) and slip the rest of the tyre on. Do this by stretching it further with a pushing action away from you, and manipulating it up on to the rim. To get the last portion on you may need to place the rim against a wall so that the wheel is horizontal to the ground, and then slip it on with your thumb.
A safer way of changing tyres is to put the new tyre on the wheel without rim cement; then pump it up to race pressure (100 to 120 psi) and glue it on afterwards. With the tyre on, roll the wheel as if to check it is true. This time look at the tyre and check that it is evenly positioned on the rim. The cement should still be soft enough for any realignment of the tyre to be easily made. Once you are sure the tyre is on correctly, pump it up and leave it to dry. A recommended drying time is half a day.
There's a strong chance of puncturing during a training ride. To be prepared for this, it's imperative that you have at least one spare tyre and a pump with you on every occasion. For long rides of up to four to six hours, it is advisable to carry two spares. Tyre levers are very handy in taking off singles which have been stuck on firmly. They can make all the difference in peeling the tyre away from the rim, especially in cold and wet weather.
If you need to change a tyre while training, simply put on a spare tyre without a new spread of cement. This is only a temporary measure to get you home as there will still be the risk of it rolling off. You should always deflate that spare upon returning home, take it off and give the rim a new dose of cement before putting the spare back on again. And don't forget to replace the spare tyre!
High-pressures [back to top]
With high-pressures, you're spared the sticky difficulties of cement work because the entire inner tube is removed and replaced when punctured. To do this effectively, you should always have a set of plastic tyre levers to help prise the tyre off the rim and expose the inner tube for extraction.
After taking the inner tube out and placing the new one in the tyre, put the valve through the rim hole. Then, using the plastic levers again and working around the rim, slip the tyre and inner tube on to the rim. As you do this, be careful not to pinch the new inner tube between the tyre levers and the rim. Always carry at least two spare tubes and a high-pressure tyre - it will come in handy if your tyre has a cut in it (a new tube wouldn't last long in a damaged tyre).
Storage [back to top]
When at home, it is recommended that a special location is found for storing all cycling equipment. A garage or basement is an ideal area for this. This helps you to know where everything is and avoids the risk of dirtying the house. It also helps you to maintain a rational perspective on the other priorities in your life which might be impaired by the sometimes omnipresent influence of cycling! By keeping your cycling equipment locked away in a separate area you are reminding yourself and others that cycling is not the only important element in your life.
Once you have located a storage area, it's important to organise it properly. We all have varying and limited space, but be efficient with the space you have. Try and include a work area in your space. You'll need it when attending to repairs and positional alterations. You could place a work bench in this area and hang tools on the wall. Also, save room for a bike work stool; these are available in most cycling shops. If there isn't enough room under the work bench, you might want a cupboard or drawer for storing loose odds and ends and smaller spare parts like pedals, handlebars, etc.
After you've done that, identify the best place to put your bicycle/s and larger spare equipment. A great space-saver is to hang your bicycle by the front or rear wheel on hooks on a beam or wall. You can do the same for spare wheels and tyres, although try to find a dark area for high-quality tyres - they're like wine and will mature and improve with age in 'cellar-like' conditions!
Packing [back to top]
When you.'re travelling, packing a bicycle calls for great care. No matter where you go, or how, there's always the risk of damage. So always insure your bicycle. You can also take several precautions to minimise the odds of harm. Some people travel on aeroplanes with their bicycle unpacked. They believe this will stop baggage-handlers from throwing it around recklessly, as sometimes happens with bike bags. However, airlines (and other transport services) don't always accept unpacked bicycles. (Another disadvantage of flying with your bike is that some airlines - particularly in the United States - charge for bikes to go on planes.) If you decide to pack your bicycle, you'll find a good range of cycling bags at most cycling shops. These, however, are expensive and can themselves become damaged. Many people nowadays use cardboard bicycle boxes. These are the boxes bicycles are delivered in - you could ask your local bicycle retailer for one. The advantage of this form of packaging is that if it's damaged, you can easily repair it with packing tape, or get another free box.
When packing a bicycle for the first time, ask an experienced traveller to show you how. Each person has their own little tricks. Here are some recommended steps:
- take off wheels and deflate tyres (for air travel). Remove quick-release axles to maximise space in the bag;
- undo pedals and remove;
- remove handlebars and stem from bicycle for more efficient packing ( if you don't remove them, handlebars take up a lot of room, even when turned inwards);
- insert a front axle or small supporting beam between front forks to prevent them being bent en route;
- place cranks parallel to frame and secure position by tying/strapping the chain section near the rear derailleur to the frame;
- wrap frame, rear derailleur, cranks, chain-rings and rear wheel block in protective material like bubbled plastic, foam or a towel;
- place frame in bag upside-down;
- for added security (not everyone does this), insert a sheet of cardboard on either side of the frame;
- slip one wheel on each side of the frame. With the rear wheel, make sure the freewheel, or block, is facing inwards and not rubbing against the frame;
- if possible, place a towel, sheet or thin protective covering over the side of the frame and wheels facing the bag opening;
- zip up the bag and make sure it is well marked with your name and address. It also helps to write FRAGILE on it as well!
It's a common tactic to include extra items like foot pumps, spare tyres and light tools in a bike bag. Clothes and shoes can also be added, though they should be put in protective plastic bags to avoid collecting grease marks. Extra packing can provide extra support and protection for the frame, but be realistic with what you can fit in.
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