by Dean Woods with Rupert Guiness

Road Cycling - Equipment

Sizing-up Custom-made Bicycles The Sizing Chart Metric Conversion Chart Frame Geometry Second-hand and Off-the-rack Bicycles Positioning Frames Wheels Rims

Hubs Spokes Tyres Brakes Gears Gear Ratio Chart Saddles Handlebars Pedals Cranks

Road cycling is now one of our most popular forms of leisure and exercise. Bicycles are still frequently used as transport -especially within inner-city limits where traffic restrictions which slow down cars and buses are no problem to the cyclist. The fact that cycling has evolved into one of our fastest-growing hobbies as well is a measure of society's growing awareness of the importance of health and fitness.

However, for the millions of people who take to the roads around the world, cycling offers much more than just improved physical condition.

For those with a competitive edge, racing can fulfil an ambitious streak. And for the adventurous, cycling is a terrific way of touring in which, either as an individual or in a group, you can discover and take in the sights at any pace you like.

As this chapter explains, there's more to road cycling than getting on a bike and pedalling. It's a sport without limits, but one that still needs special planning and preparation in order to reap the full benefits from it.

Choosing the Right Bike

Before buying the ideal bicycle there are two things to decide: firstly, you must choose what type of cycling activity you are going to do and secondly, you need to calculate the amount of money you are willing to spend.

Every cyclist dreams of buying the ultimate custom-designed bicycle, made up of a personally built frame and specially chosen gears, componentry and wheels. Each year research in wind tunnels has seen bicycle frame and component design change to be more aerodynamic, or less wind resistant, and therefore to offer greater speed potential. Not all designs suit all riders; often the most advanced research is made with one elite rider, such as Greg LeMond or Miguel Indurain, being used as a test model.

However, it was in the 1980 Olympic Games at Moscow, when Switzerland's Robert Dill-Bundi won the individual pursuit title using a low-profile bicycle for the first time in world-class competition, that the diversity of bicycle design took a major step. Since then not a season has passed without some radical design appearing in the pursuit of aerodynamic speed.

If you're a beginner, though, start with a standard road bicycle. Emulating Dill-Bundi and the horde of pioneering greats in design can wait till later when you are at a better level. For now, don't be hesitant about buying a pre-built or set-up bicycle 'off the rack'.

Second-hand bicycles are also good for beginners. You can buy these from shops or through local clubs. Proficient riders often use them as their second bicycle for training. When you're buying one for the first time, just make sure that you have been measured up correctly so that you get the right size.

There's no point in spending A$2000 on a bicycle if you are only going to ride on weekends. You need to work out how often you will use your bicycle, how many kilometres you will ride and also if you are going to cycle for leisure, touring or racing.

Whatever you choose, if you are a beginner, it is probably best to buy the least expensive equipment and focus on gaining confidence and experience with your bike. You can use this time to decide on what direction you will take in the sport. If you do finally decide to race, a beginner shouldn't need to spend more than A$l000 for their first proper racing bicycle.

As for finding the best location to buy a bicycle, shop around. Word of mouth is a good way of finding a reliable cycle shop. Make a list of the shops in your area and ~ find out where other cyclists go to buy their equipment. A good place should willingly give free and friendly advice to potential customers. Avoid those shops in which the proprietors are sales-driven and grudging with their time.

By the time you have located your most suitable shop you will also have developed a good sense of what equipment and products are available. The question of what to get and what not to get is quite complex when buying a road bicycle. These are the points worth remembering when choosing one.

Sizing-up   [back to top]

When you begin choosing your bicycle, you need to know what measurements you have for body weight, height and inner-leg length.

If you can, you should go into the shop prepared with specific sizing-up figures. If you don't have these, one of the prerequisites of any good shop is that they will size you up properly before selling you a bicycle.

Most major bicycle shops have an indoor 'measuring bike' which can change its dimensions according to your bodily proportions while you sit on it. With this, the head stem, the seat post and the length of the top tube can be adjusted. This will accurately measure what size your bike's dimensions should be.

Another positioning device is the Fit Kit, a portable American-made machine which is available in Australia at some specialist bicycle shops. It comes with computer software on which you record arm, inside-leg, thigh, foot and upper-torso lengths. When fed into a computer, the programme will tell you your required frame size, head- stem length and seat height.

Custom-made Bicycles   [back to top]

If you're having your bicycle custom-made, one of the benefits of an adjustable measuring bike is that you and the builder can see together what you need before any work is started. (There is nothing more frustrating than parting with your cash after having waited for months in anticipation while your bike frame was being built, only to discover the frame size you end up with is totally wrong!)

However, if this machine is not available, then sizing-up can still be done by an expert mechanic or frame builder. If you know very little about bicycles it is best to ask the bicycle shop or your club about sizing-up. Don't ask just one person, though - ask several people for their opinions. Then assess the various options and see how they work in with the shop's assessment.

Frame Size   [back to top]

The Sizing Chart

Inseam inches cm 26 66 26.5 67.3 27 68.6 27.5 69.9 28 71.1 28.5 72.4 29 73.7 29.5 74.9 30 76.2 30.5 77.5 31 78.7 31.5 80 32 81.3 32.5 82.6 33 83.8 33.5 85.1 34 86.4 34.5 87.6 35 88.9 35.5 90.2 36 91.4 36.5 92.7 37 94 37.5 95.3 38 96.5 38.5 97.8 39 99.1 39.5 100.3 40 101.6 40.5 102.9 41 104.1 41.5 105.4 42 106.7 42.5 108 43 109.2 43.5 110.5

Frame Size inches cm 16.9 42.9 17.2 43.8 17.6 44.6 17.9 45.4 18.2 46.2 18.5 47.1 18.9 47.9 19.2 48.7 19.5 49.5 19.8 50.4 20.2 51.2 20.5 52 20.8 52.8 21.1 53.7 21.5 54.5 21.8 55.3 22.1 56.1 22.4 57.8 22.8 57.8 23.1 58.6 23.4 59.4 23.7 60.3 24.1 61.1 24.4 61.9 24.7 62.7 25 63.6 25.4 64.4 25.7 65.2 26 66 26.3 66.9 26.7 67.1 27 68.5 27.3 69.3 27.6 70.2 28 71 28.3 71.8

Seat height* inches cm 23 58.3 23.4 59.4 23.8 60.6 24.3 61.7 24.7 62.8 25.2 63.9 25.6 65 26 66.2 26.5 67.3 26.9 68.4 27.4 69.5 27.8 70.6 28.3 71.8 28.7 72.9 29.1 74 29.6 75.1 30 76.3 30.5 77.4 30.9 78.5 31.3 79.6 31.8 80.7 32.2 81.9 32.7 83 33.1 84.1 33.6 85.2 34 86.3 34.4 87.5 34.9 88.6 35.3 89.7 35.8 90.8 36.2 92 36.6 93.1 37.1 94.2 37.5 95.3 38 96.4 38.4 97.6

*Distance from top of the saddle to the centre of the bottom-bracket axle

Frame Sizes   [back to top]

Metric Conversion Chart

inches cm 17 43.2 17.5 44.5 18 45.7 18.5 47 19 48.3 19.5 49.5 20 50.8 20.5 52.1 21 53.3

inches cm 21.5 54.6 22 55.9 22.5 57.2 23 58.4 23.5 59.7 24 61 24.5 62.2 25 63.5 25.5 64.8

inches cm 26 66 26.5 67.3 27 68.6 27.5 69.9 28 71.1 28.5 72.4 29 73.7

Frame Geometry   [back to top]

Variations on Frame Geometry

When we refer to a frame by the angle of its seat tube and head tube, we assume an average frame size of 58 centimetres (or 23 inches). But there are many different frame sizes, obviously, and geometry varies with frame size.

Frame size	Seat-tube angle	Head-tube angle
47 cm and less	74 degrees	72.5 degrees
47.5 cm-52 cm	73 degrees	73 degrees
52.5 cm-61 cm	72 degrees	74 degrees
61 cm and greater	71.5 degrees	74.5 degrees

(This chart gives only a rough indication of the variation in frame geometry. Every manufacturer has a different range of seat and head-tube angles for its bikes.)

Nearly all frame builders measure their bicycles from centre to centre (centre of the bottom bracket to the centre of the seat lug) on all measurements. However, make it a habit to refer to your measurements as 'centre-to-centre', as some builders refer to centre-to-top (to top of the seat lug). The main reason why centre-to-centre measurements are more accurate is because varying sizes of lugs, or brazed joints to the tubing, can alter centre-to-top measurements.

Follow these steps when using a Fit Kit-style adjustable frame bike.

1. Seat-tube length

• Adjust the saddle forwards or backwards so the middle of the seat is centred over the seat post.
• Now adjust the seat post so that it is extended approximately 10 to 15 centimetres ( 4 to 6 inches) out of the frame.
• Place one pedal at its furthest point from the seat (at the '5-o'clock' position).
• Now, to determine the correct length of the seat tube, mount the bicycle wearing your cycling shoes and place your heel over the centre of the pedal axle ( which should still be in the 5-o'clock position). The saddle should be high enough so that your leg is slightly bent at the knee. The seat tube of the measuring bike can be adjusted until this position is reached.

2. Top-tube length

• Set the head-stem length (that is, the horizontal distance ) to between 12 and 13 centimetres (4.75 and 5 inches). This has been found to be the best length for strength and handling. Remember to try out the same make of handlebars as you'll be using on your custom-made bike.
• Put both feet in the pedals wearing your cycling shoes, and position your right foot in line with the down tube. Get into a racing position by placing your hands on the drops, or lower section of the handlebars.
• Now adjust the length of the top tube to the ideal position -i.e. have the inside of your elbow lined up with the centre of the outside of your knee. This position once set can be slightly lengthened or shortened, depending on how comfortable you feel. Ask someone else to check your position too, to make sure that your back is straight, and not arched. When you reach the ideal position, you'll have the correct length of the top tube.

3. Head-stem height

• This will depend on how tall you are and the size of your bicycle frame. Getting the measurement right will improve aerodynamics and comfort. A good guideline is for the top of your head stem to be 5 to 8 centimetres (2 to 3 inches) lower than the top of your seat.

Second-hand and Off-the-rack Bicycles   [back to top]

Sizing-up for a second-hand or pre-made bicycle is a simple procedure because three things are already determined: the top tube, seat tube and seat angle of the bicycle.

To position your seat correctly, the first step is to find out the ideal measurement from the tip of the saddle to the middle of the bottom bracket. This is determined by mounting the bicycle and placing the pedals in a horizontal, quarter-to-3 position. A vertical line should pass from the tip of the knee to the centre of the pedal while you are in race position. The seat will need to be adjusted backwards or forwards until this vertical line is established. When you have achieved this line, simply hang a plumb bob from the tip of the seat and measure the horizontal distance from the line to the middle of the bottom bracket.

To find your correct seat height, mount the bicycle, wearing your cycling shoes, and adjust the seat height up or down so that your leg is slightly bent while the pedal is at the 5-o'clock position and your heel is on the centre of the pedal axle.

For your head-stem length, get into the racing position with your pedals in line with the down tube once more. See how cramped up or stretched out you are. Try to get into a position so that the line of your forearm is parallel to your thigh. Make sure that your final position is comfortable at the three points of contact with the handlebars -the brake-lever covers, the top of the bars and the drops.

As you will not be able to alter the size of the frame, you will need to compensate for this by buying a head stem of a different length. If you are fortunate enough to know someone who owns a wide selection, ask if you can experiment with different lengths before buying one. If you can't do this, perhaps the bike shop owner will let you sample a few second-hand sizes if there are any available. Once you buy a new head stem it can't be exchanged if you should make the wrong choice.

Don't forget, though, that whatever anyone says, in the end it is how you feel on the bike that is important. It will take a lot of trial and error to find the most ideal position, especially if you are new to the sport. Take heart from the fact that even the top professionals are known to change their position from year to year. In some cases, they do it from month to month!

Positioning   [back to top]

The size of your bicycle frame and your position on it are extremely important. These factors affect comfort and riding efficiency, and a properly sized bicycle and position can avert serious muscle and tendon injury.

The basic principle of bicycle positioning is more or less the same whether you are riding a standard bicycle on the road, on the track or competing in a time trial. The idea is to have your body weight evenly distributed over both wheels. Across the various disciplines, though, measurements and position will still vary slightly depending on personal preferences and the environment you are riding in.

For example, in road racing as a general rule your seat should be slightly more behind the centre bracket than for track racing or time trials. However, when you are actually on the road you confront different terrain all the time. When you come to a flat section you will naturally pull yourself over the centre bracket more. And when going uphill there is a tendency to ride further behind the bracket.

Anatomy

Frames   [back to top]

When choosing your frame, think about the material it is built of. These days frames are made from a variety of materials -steel, carbon-fibre, aluminium and titanium, the latter two becoming increasingly popular. They all have their pluses and minuses, with the top of the range in each material generally being very well built.

Whatever the material, the price of frames hinges on the manufacturing costs involved. Steel frames are generally cheaper because they cost less to build, whereas aluminium (although a cheap raw material) is dearer because aluminium frames require more expensive manufacturing methods. The same goes for carbon-fibre frames which are generally made from specially built moulds. With titanium, the costs are even more because costly construction methods are used to build a frame and the material itself is expensive (it is, however, very long-lasting).

If you do a lot of racing, you may not want carbon-fibre or aluminium frames because the spring in the forks disappears after about 12 months due to constant stress. These frames also tend not to be stiff enough, and those which are come at a very high price. This is fine if you're riding for a team which provides new frames all the time. But for the average person it's not necessary.

The type of frame you buy is really only an issue when you are a top-level rider racing in specific events. As a beginner, it's best to start with a steel frame because they are cheaper and more durable. Within this category there are several good tubing sets: Reynolds of England, Columbus of Italy and Ichiwata and Tange from Japan (two brands which have come a long way in recent years). These and other brands are available in countries throughout the world. Most top frame builders in your area will use them, but imported frames are not necessarily of better quality.

Reynolds can be recommended. They make good 753- millimetre and 653-millimetre steel tubing. (753 and 653 are measurements for the density of the tubing. ) Some frames are thicker at the joints, or lugs, to absorb stress, and thin in the tubes. The 753, for example, is very light and strong.

Remember that a second-hand frame can look brand-new with a new paint job. Just check two things: one, that it is not cracked and two, that it is not too old. Check also that it hasn't been damaged in a crash. It's fairly easy to tell if second-hand equipment is in good condition or not. Look ~ for scratches, marks and any strange bends or dents. You can apply these rules to many pieces of equipment, although gears, centre brackets and head sets should be new even in a second-hand bicycle. This is because they will not last the lifetime of the frame. With wheels and hubs, always check they roll evenly, or 'true'.

It is rare that a shop or person will deliberately try to sell damaged equipment -word would get around too quickly. But don't be complacent. Rip- offs can sometimes occur. So if you have doubts or concerns about a product someone is trying to sell you, don't be afraid to ask someone else what they think. You could even visit the shop again with a friend or fellow rider who may be more knowledgeable than you.

Wheels   [back to top]

The choice of wheels depends on what event or circumstances you are cycling in. If you decide to get customised wheels, make sure that the person who makes them up is an experienced wheel builder. If you are thinking of buying a second- hand pair it's easy to tell if they have had a lot of heavy use. Look at the side of the rims to see the extent of wear marks from the brakes. Or open up the axle and see what condition the grease is in: if it's really dirty and full of sand and grit you'll know that the wheels are either old or have been ridden in harsh and wet conditions.

There is a variety of aerodynamic wheel designs for time-trialling: disc wheels, three and four-bladed wheels and those with large and small V -sectioned rims. First we will look at the requirements of a normal bicycle wheel.

It's best to have at least two sets of wheels: one for training and one for racing. If you used one set for both purposes you'd soon wear them out. Or you'd find yourself always rushing to get the one set you have in top condition for racing. By saving a set for racing alone, it will always be there and ready for use. Ultimately, it would be ideal to have three sets of wheels -one for training and two for racing.

For elite competitors it's a good idea to have at least two pairs of wheels for racing and another two ~pairs for training, saving the most expensive ones for competitions.

Rims   [back to top]

The key element to a wheel, most good rims are made of heat-treated aluminium by a process of anodising which gives them a black colour. Weights vary for all rims, with the lighter grades usually being used for track racing or time trials. It's better in road races to go for a heavier, sturdier type.

The best rims are Mavic GP4s for general use on both road and track. They are a middle-of-the-range brand, but provide the top quality of more expensive marks like Campagnolo.

Hubs   [back to top]

All you need now are hubs and spokes. Hubs can be made from alloy, carbon-fibre and even titanium, though most hubs are alloy. In this domain Campagnolo is regarded as both the most stylish and the best. It's worth paying more for this brand: unlike poor-quality, cheaper hub brands whose bearings can wear out quickly, Campagnolo hubs wear in and improve as they get older. Today sealed bearings are also used more than the old loose-bearing style purely because they need less maintenance.

Spokes   [back to top]

The choice for quality spokes is more limited. Spokes are normally made from stainless steel, although it is becoming more common for elite cyclists to use carbon-fibre spokes which - while more expensive- are lighter while still providing strength. The most reputable international brand is DT from Switzerland. It is estimated that 95% of top professional teams in Europe use these spokes because of their strength and reliability.

Spokes come in a variety of thicknesses and gauges, but choice depends on the number of spokes you need and your weight and cycling style. Spokes also come in two designs -the conventional round style and the flat or bladed sort which is more aerodynamic. Wheels with fewer spokes provide more aerodynamism but less strength. Wheel builders attempt to compensate for this by using various lacing patterns.

For general racing and training, traditional spoked wheels are the most common. They come in a range of 24 to 40 spokes, with 32 to 36 being the most frequently used because a greater number provides more reliability and strength (if one spoke breaks you can continue riding).

Wheels with fewer spokes (24 or 28) bear less structural strength. But they are good for time trials where smoother surface conditions mean there is less possibility of damaging their more fragile make up, or on mountains where less weight is an advantage.

While you might want to go for lighter or more aerodynamic spokes, be aware of two things -your body weight and build, and the terrain you are cycling on. It is best to go for heavier-gauge or thicker spokes if you are a big person or you're cycling on bad roads. Similarly, unless you are light or are riding on smooth roads, it's advisable to buy wheels which have a standard 36-spoke wheel. Riders like five-times Tour de France champion Miguel Indurain can get away with fewer spokes because their style is so smooth, but someone of Indurain's size without his experience would only tear apart a wheel with fewer spokes.

Tyres   [back to top]

There are two standard types of tyre: high-pressures -known as 'clinchers' in the United States -which are detachable from the rim and have a separate inner tube; and singles -called 'tubs' in Great Britain and 'sew-ups' in the US -which have the tube sewn into the tyre and are glued on to the rim.

Make sure that whatever type you use, it is designed for the style of wheel rim you have.

Depending on the country you're in, you may find regulations which determine what kind of tyres you are allowed to use. For example, in Australia racing cyclists under 17 years of age are not allowed to use singles, although in Europe racing cyclists of all ages can use them in track and road competitions.

The choice of tyre is enormous. Price is a major factor. You can pay from A$10 to A$350 for a single, so be realistic with your needs. Whatever you buy, save your best tyres for racing and the cheaper ones for training and small, less important races. High- pressure tyres, being cheaper, are better saved for training, although some professional teams in Europe have been using prototype models in competition recently.

In good weather, high-pressure tyres are great. But many riders have complained that in the wet they are, contrary to popular belief, more vulnerable to punctures than singles. This is because loose gravel, broken glass or even fallen twigs are less easily seen in wet conditions. And while these objects can pierce singles as well when passed over, they are more likely to cause the thicker and firmer outer tube of a high-pressure tyre to pinch the inner tube and puncture it. (Singles are less likely to puncture because the inner and outer tube are constructed as one tyre, not in two parts as a high-pressure is.) Worse still, high-pressures have a tendency to hold far less traction on the road than singles. However, manufacturers are constantly trying to develop better products and may come up with the answer to these problems. It is also generally accepted that singles are lighter and more reliable to use in competition.

For a recommended choice, use the Italian Vittoria brand for road racing, for wet or dry conditions. For good high-pressures, use Michelin from France or Continental from Germany.

With your frame, wheels and tyres chosen, you now need the componentry - the brakes and gears -to go with them. This is also an area you should be cautious about because there are many manufacturers and systems available and, as with wheels and frames, there are new developments in these products every year.

Brakes   [back to top]

Don't go for the cheapest brand and model, but also be wary of choosing the most expensive just because you've seen the top professionals use them. Professional teams are paid to use the latest, top-of-the-range products. After all, they are the manufacturer's shop window. If you buy this type of componentry you might not know exactly how to set it up and you may end up spending even more money getting a bicycle shop mechanic to correct your mistakes than you bargained for. An alignment only needs to be slightly 'out' and the whole brake or gear system can be out too. (On the big pro teams, riders simply hand their bikes to their salaried team mechanic whenever there is a problem.)

Years ago, the Italian manufacturer Campagnolo was regarded as the top-of-the-range manufacturer for their brakes and gears. Since then, Japanese companies have invested in research and, after several years of development, their products are considered to be up to par with Campagnolo. Two Japanese firms in particular who have come a long way in recent years are Shimano and Suntour. They match their rivals in being expensive, but at least they've given cyclists more choice. Now brake choice depends more on personal taste. Several can be recommended: from the top-of-the-range level - Campagnolo C Record and Shimano Dura-Ace - to a good, mid-priced quality model - Shimano 600.

When choosing your brake cables make sure they are positioned within the handlebars and not protruding out above them, as was the case up until the last decade. It will improve aerodynamism and also give your bike a cleaner and slicker look.

Gears   [back to top]

Before going into gearing selection, it is important to understand how gears work. Gears are changed by a lever system on the down tube or (as in recent years) on the handlebars adjoining the brake system. Basically, gears provide you with a range of pedal resistances for riding comfortably and efficiently in various terrain.

You will hear people talk about small gears and big gears. These refer to gear ratios and are dependent upon what position a rider has the chain on the rear cluster and front chain-ring. The smaller the gear, the easier your pedal resistance will be and vice versa. You would use small gears going uphill and bigger gears going downhill or on flat sections while in a sprint or attack.

If you are a beginner it's best to settle for gearing which is positioned on the down tube and which is not an automated or 'click-shift' system where the gears simply slip into place with a shift of the lever. Why? Because a free or 'ratchet' system where you have to find the gear when you shift will educate you in developing an instinctive feel for the gears. Automated gear systems are something you can buy later when you've got more experience.

Of the many brands, Campagnolo is one of the most expensive systems. Shimano Dura-Ace can be just as expensive; they have a range of three or four group sets which all work well. Suntour is also expensive. (It is good, but it doesn't seem to last as long as the others. ) The purpose of a gear chart is to work out the effectiveness of the gear combination you are using with the rear and front derailleur. This is valued in inches per pedal stroke (to give centimetres, multiply this figure by 2.54).

The gearing you use on the front chain-ring is at the top of the chart (under 'Number of teeth in chain-wheel') and the rear free-wheel (or cog) gearing is along the left of the chart ('Number of teeth in free-wheel sprocket'). The figures in the chart itself are the calculated distances the respective combinations will give you using those gearings. For example, a 52 x 14 gearing will theoretically move 100.3 inches (254.8 centimetres) per pedal stroke.

Using the same example, we can see how the equation works: dividing 52 (the front chain-ring) by 14 (the rear cog) gives 3.714. The number of times this can be divided into 100.3 is 27, so the diameter of the wheel is 27 inches (3.714 x 27 = 100.3).

In most countries there are roll-out restrictions for juniors, both male and female. The roll-out is the distance travelled by one revolution of the bike wheel when the highest gear ratio is selected, i.e. the smallest rear (free-wheel) sprocket and the largest front (chain-wheel) sprocket. In Australia, restrictions are: under 19 years, 7.9 metres (8.6 yards); under 17, 6.5 metres (7.1 yards); under 15, 6.0 metres (6.5 yards); under 13, 5.5 metres (6.0 yards); under 11, 5.5 metres (6.0 yards).

Gear Ratios Chart   [back to top]

Distance in inches travelled on a 27-inch wheel with one pedal revolution

	38	39	40	41	42	43	44	45	46	47	48	49	50	51	52	53	54	55	56
12	85.5	87.8	90	92.2	94.5	96.7	99	101.3	103.5	105.7	108	110.2	112.5	114.8	117	119.2	121.5	123.7	126
13	78.9	81	83.1	85.2	87.2	89.3	91.4	93.5	95.5	97.6	99.7	101.8	103.8	105.9	108	110.1	112.2	114.2	116.3
14	73.3	75.2	77.1	79.1	81	82.9	84.9	86.8	88.7	90.6	92.6	94.5	96.4	98.4	100.3	102.2	104.1	106.1	108
15	68.4	70.2	72	73.8	75.6	77.4	79.2	81	82.8	84.6	86.4	88.2	90	91.8	93.6	95.4	97.2	99	100.8
16	64.1	65.8	67.5	69.2	70.9	72.6	74.3	75.9	77.6	79.3	81	82.7	84.4	86.1	87.8	89.4	91.1	92.8	94.5
17	60.4	61.9	63.5	65.1	66.7	68.3	69.9	71.5	73.1	74.6	76.2	77.8	79.4	81	82.6	84.2	85.8	87.4	88.9
18	57	58.5	60	61.5	63	64.5	66	67.5	69	70.5	72	73.5	75	76.5	78	79.5	81	82.5	84
19	54	55.4	56.8	58.3	59.7	61.1	62.5	63.9	65.4	66.8	68.2	69.6	71.1	72.5	73.9	75.3	76.7	78.2	79.6
20	51.3	52.7	54	55.4	56.7	58.1	59.4	60.8	62.1	63.5	64.8	66.2	67.5	68.9	70.2	71.6	72.9	74.3	75.6
21	48.9	50.1	51.4	52.7	54	55.3	56.6	57.9	59.1	60.4	61.7	63	64.3	65.6	66.9	68.1	69.4	70.7	72
22	46.6	47.9	49.1	50.3	51.5	52.8	54	55.2	56.5	57.7	58.9	60.1	61.4	62.6	63.8	65	66.3	67.5	68.7
23	44.6	45.8	47	48.1	49.3	50.5	51.7	52.8	54	55.2	56.3	57.5	58.7	59.9	61	62.2	63.4	64.6	65.7
24	42.8	43.9	45	46.1	47.3	48.4	49.5	50.6	51.8	52.9	54	55.1	56.3	57.4	58.5	59.6	60.8	61.9	63
25	41	42.1	43.2	44.3	45.4	46.4	47.5	48.6	49.7	50.8	51.8	52.9	54	55.1	56.2	57.2	58.3	59.4	60.5
26	39.5	40.5	41.5	42.6	43.6	44.7	45.7	46.7	47.8	48.8	49.8	50.9	51.9	53	54	55	56.1	57.1	58.2
27	38	39	40	41	42	43	44	45	46	47	48	49	50	51	52	53	54	55	56
28	36.6	37.6	38.6	39.5	40.5	41.5	42.4	43.4	44.4	45.3	46.3	47.3	48.2	49.2	50.1	51.1	52.1	53	54
29	35.4	36.3	37.2	38.2	39.1	40	41	41.9	42.8	43.8	44.7	45.6	46.6	47.5	48.4	49.3	50.3	51.2	52.1